A good majority of our wooden floor restoration are Pine Floorboards, which usually require a 36 grit abrasive, it may also be necessary to begin sanding at a 25-45 degree angle, depending on how flat the Floorboards are. In doing so it helps level the floor much better and will take out any cupping.
The second step of the wooden floor restoration is to then sand the Floorboards with the grain. It’s important to use the same grade of abrasive for this as it will ensure all previous diagonal scratches are removed.
After this we move on to a medium grade abrasive, say 50-60 grit, which for our money is one of the most crucial parts, as it is this step that will help transition the floor from rough to medium. Besides, this also helps to smooth out any marks left from the previous process.
For the final part of the restoration process we use fine abrasives, usually 80-120 grit (depending on wood species). This leaves the surface of the wooden floor smooth to the touch and almost, ready for finishing.
Fine Floor Sanding
For fine floor sanding we use a specialist machine called the Bona Flexisand 1.9. Our team carefully buff the entire floor. In using the multi disc plate we can provide and even scratch pattern (not visible to the eye) that is crucial for the finishing process. This will prevent the dreaded ‘halo’ effect around the perimeter of the room, which will become visible when a finish is applied.
Resin Gap Filling
Once our filler has the correct consistency, we spread over the entire surface. This will fill in all the gaps between boards along with any other cracks and blemishes.
Resin filling does improve insulation however it’s not without flaws. With dramatic changes in temperature and the natural movement of wood, resin filler can crack and fall through over time.
The second method uses reclaimed Pine slivers. The slivers are purchased is a pre-cut wedge, ranging from 6,8,10 & 12mm thick. In our experience, we would say the sliver method is one of the best for filling gaps both cosmetically & aesthetically.
The third gap filling method is a product called Draughtex. It’s a really simple idea, one that I personally think is great! It basically consists of squashing the product between the gaps using the application tool provided.
Bona Gap Master
Last but certainly not least, we have Bona Gap Master! Gap Master is a flexible acrylic mastic, meaning it wont shrink or crack and best of all it will expand and retract with the boards during climate change. Although not the cheapest method of gap filling, it certainly is the best!
Polyurethane lacquer is our most frequently used product. It has low VOC, low odor and best of all it is water-based, meaning it doesn’t take days to dry as found with older varnishes. A fantastic product to use on all floor types and available in a wide variety of sheens such as; Invisible, Ultra Matt, Matt, Satin and Gloss. Our preferred products are by far Bona, Loba & Floor Service 2k.
When sealing floors, we apply 3 good coats as standard. On commercial wooden flooring we apply 1 base coat, followed by 2 coats of 2-part commercial grade Lacquer. Bona Traffic Hd gets our vote on Commercial flooring.
For an Oil finish we highly recommend Floor Service 2k, which is combined with an activator to speed up curing and add additional durability.
It will not require yearly top ups as found with surface layer Hardwax Oils. Floor Service 2k seeps deep into the pours of the timber, forming a great bona with the molecular structure. Effectively, it becomes part of the wood as apposed to a layer on top of the surface.
-Every project is completed with the finest professional finishes guaranteed!
Screen & Seal
Ideally your floors require a Screen & Seal when they start to show signs of wear -usually found in high traffic areas, if you act sooner rather than later, this will prevent any long term damage to the floors.
If however your floor has deep scratches or grey patches, unfortunately it is beyond a maintenance service and will require sanding.
The Screen & Seal process involves keying the wooden floor using a 120 grit mesh screen on a buffer. After, we carefully vacuum all debris and apply a fresh coat of lacquer or oil (depending on the previous finish).